No more idle threats

As if things weren't bad enough for the people of Malawi, the USA just froze one of its largest non-health related grants to Malawi - the one aimed at rebuilding the defunct power plants and helping Malawi meet its electricity needs. The Millennium Challenge Corporation noted the recent violence against initially peaceful protests and the growing dictator-like policies of its president as reasons to withhold the aid. It's worth a quick read in the New York Times if you are interested. We're stocking up on candles and hoping that the president comes to his senses.

Honestly, it's getting harder and harder to not just be cynical about this. What is it with African leaders? I thought we had one here as an example of good governance and democracy. Sadly, every day, he acts more and more like his best buddy to the north, Mugabe. Mugabe is not a good role model. We don't need Malawi to turn into another Zimbabwe. Malawi cannot afford it.

On looking "smart"...part II

It's not just people who can look "smart." I learned today that bathrooms can look smart too.

How do bathrooms look smart? Well, taking my cue from the national TB program bathroom (where, yes, I was taking photos), there are several key components of smart toilets:

1. Don't just "moon" the toilet. "Flash" it too so that your exposure is even.
2. Place toilet seats on the wall dividing stalls. This will help keep them clean.
3. Just throw your paper on the floor.
4. Place a plastic tube across the broken sink as a lovely reminder for needed repairs.


Despite these shortcomings, there was both a square of toilet paper on the roll and soap in this bathroom, making it one of the best I've seen in any public building! Hoorah!!!

Entering day three

It is 6:45am here. It is quiet. I can't tell how quiet yet, but unsettling quiet. There are some traffic sounds, which could be a sign of things back to normal. Or, they could be people moving around before the roads are blocked. We are staying home, at least for now.

This is the news worth sharing right now

• We topped the report from BBC Africa: 18 dead; 4 radio stations shut down by the government for live coverage of the demonstrations; 1 popular, UK-based Malawi news website hacked.
• Some of the more amusing of the president's comments yesterday in his "calming" speech include noting that the protesters are working for Satan. I guess things have gone to hell around here.
  
• Alternatively, in another speech, the president said that the demonstrations are just leading a gay parade. I ask you, when did you last see a gay pride parade turn violent?
• The funerals of the killed protesters are today. The civil society groups have noted that they will take charge of the funerals. I hope they are peaceful.

Here is a good overview if you want it, from the UK Guardian newspaper.

More news as it comes.

A map of the action

Just an update from the safety of our home. We're fine. Jon made a map to make it easier for you all to see the situation. The red Xs are where much of the action is - they look close, but they are at least a mile away, and most areas are several miles away. Our home (blue) is away from the major action, but within earshot.


Anyway, since our last update, this is what we have learned:

• Current riots and looting in the areas with the Xs - including grocery stores, Chinese-owned businesses, political offices, and market stalls.
• Area 25 gun shots and police firing to disperse crowds
• In a local church where protester leaders tried to take refuge yesterday, both political activists and journalists were attacked by police and beaten.
• In a shopping area in a neighboring area, a police car was burned and people were told to evacuate the surrounding buildings, including an office where many of our friends work.
• 9 dead and several dozen injured in Mzuzu to the north. We hear about more dead in Lilongwe this morning, but we cannot confirm it.
• The roads into and out of town are blocked; we hear (unconfirmed) that no flights took off yesterday.
• Cars on the road last night and today have been stoned by angry crowds
  
• Many are blaming the police for escalating and provoking crowds
  

In response to these events, there have been repeated calls for calm from civil society leaders this morning on the radio. The radio messages remind everyone that protests were scheduled yesterday; today's unsanctioned madness is not helping anyone. The civil society groups are asking people to remember that the people's petition was delivered, and that the government was given a month to respond. They ask for peace while they wait for a response to their demands from the government.

We hear that the President is supposed to speak at any time. I am not sure if that will make the situation better or worse...

More later as events unfold.

So much for that peace...

Well, it appeared to be a peaceful morning - birds chirping, Jon off to work, people thinking it was safe. Then, the pops of tear gas canisters, smoke in the distance, and two calls in quick succession:

1. From my Malawi boss: "Stay home. Trouble around town"
2. From my non-local NGO boss: "Pack a bag - just in case"

So, as I pause to write this out, I hear that gangs are gathering around town, sirens in the not-so-distance, people are running from the center of town up our relatively calm street. Some more stores have been looted, including several banks, and rumors of worse incidents abound. This is really not very good.

So, off I go to pack my and Jon's bag -- passports, money, and some changes of clothes.

More as it comes in. Hopefully, it will be calmer as the day goes on. Hopefully.

UPDATE: Jon just home after going to work for a few minutes. Streets were still clear of traffic, but crowded with walkers on their way home. Glad that we are both home, packed, and ready to see what happens, together.

Hoping for a peaceful night...

Thanks to the riots, we had the afternoon off to take our dog to the vet down the street (she's fine). Now, back, we are happy (or bittersweet happy) that all here in our ritzy neighborhood is calm.

Still no cars on the road, and just a few plumes of smoke in the distance. We've heard that an auctioneer's warehouse was ransacked (the owner is a member of a past president's family) and that 2 other goods storage areas were also looted. A friend of ours is stuck in traffic behind some currently-peaceful protest marches heading for the center of town as I type (4:30pm, local time). And, we've made BBC news as well!

We're hoping that things calm down and that all will be "normal" tomorrow. It is sad, as Jon noted, that this is not what the people intended for this day to be -- a day to peacefully protest the current government's policies. It will be interesting to see what the news reports tomorrow, or what the news is allowed to report tomorrow.

We're fine. It's Malawi that seems in trouble.

Well that didn't take long...

Some snippets from this morning:

· Tear gas thrown by police in old town near bus station drifted into our second clinic location, closing it today (I am at the other clinic)

· People are out on the streets wearing red, the color of protest

· Internet news sites are blocked

· Radio station frequencies are blocked

· Police cars are on fire

· Stores of political party members are on fire

· People are burning tires in the road to block police movement

· Police are on “parade” in city center

· Buses have been burned in Mzuzu to the north

· Political office burned in Mzuzu

· The streets, other than the protests are quite – very few cars on the road

And during all this, the President continues to give his public lecture about how great things are going in Malawi…word on the street says that only his political party members are attending.

No clinic patients today at my or Jon’s clinic: Jon’s clinic is closed, and the nurses here are sunbathing. We, however, are staying put.

UPDATE: my clinic is now closed too at 11am. People are leaving their cars and walking home in groups.

Malawi’s downward spiral?

I am sure that most news of Malawi does not make it to the USA. Much news about Malawi barely makes it to us, and we live here. But, recent events are really making this a tough place to live, and I don’t just mean for us. There are several recent events that we should mention.

The first is the Malawi Pensions Bill . Now, usually this is a really boring topic, but there are some attention drawing issues here. First, in 2010, Malawi made the retirement age 55. Considering that the life expectancy for is 44 years for men and 51 for women , this seems harsh: the majority would be dead before eligibility. So, they lowered the age to 50, almost as cruel but not quite. Now, what do Malawians access at the age of pension? Presumably, they will have a state-sponsored account, similar to our social security (or the only parallel I can easily draw), that they can access at 50 years old. As of June 1, 2011, all employed (KEY WORD) Malawians will be forced to contribute 5% of their monthly wage to this fund; 10% of the monthly wage will also be contributed by the employer. Effectively, everyone in Malawi just got a 15% pay cut. As all the prices are going up, do you think this is fair? And the government is swiftly losing all credibility, do you think this money will be there for average citizens?

To make matters worse, remember when Malawi kicked out the British High Commissioner for noting the continuing issues with good governance or financial policy? No apology from here yet – ensuing chaos be damned! Not surprisingly, the British Government pulled their general budget assistance – a huge chunk of what lets the government operate here. So, to fill the enormous void, Malawi is promoting a Zero Deficit budget – dreaming up ways to make up budget shortfalls by any means necessary. First, they started taxing "luxury" goods like milk, bread, and meat. Now, they will be using the pension funds to supplement what the donor community will no longer provide. Luckily for everyone, the Brits still are funding 40% of the health budget or there would be very few paid healthcare workers. Unpaid healthcare workers are not happy healthcare workers…

And, if the intermittent supply of diesel and petrol was not enough, how about some more blackouts? The local, and only, power company recently declared that another of its main power stations was closed for repairs (making 3, in total), reducing the energy supply to a trickle. In response, the power company released plans for morning and evening blackouts – including from 4pm-10pm every night until the end of the year. So far, we’ve seen more short, unpredictable blackouts and bought a small backup battery to power a few lights and a computer. In combination with the diesel shortage to supply generators, people and businesses are really facing a power crisis.

So, what are Malawians doing in response to their government’s policies? Well, so far, not much. There have been some criticisms in the papers, some anger in the radio news, and some stirrings of protest. In fact, there are supposed to be massive demonstrations tomorrow, Wednesday, and rumors already abound about tactics to create chaos. However, fear of arrest, detainment, or other undesirable outcomes keeps most people away. The continuing petrol and diesel shortages might reduce crowd size as well.

Malawi is usually a very calm place – too calm, some might say. It could be getting interesting around here (from a political perspective – still excruciatingly boring from a social perspective). We’ll keep you posted. And, after a preemptive warning, we’ll stay away from the action behind our very large walls….

The dry season

...is supposed to be about rain. But, nope: it is also about petrol. And, dear friends, it will be a long dry season.

I have 1/4 tank; Jon has a little more. Enough for a week, at most, if we only drive to and from work or carpool. The BP Fuel Update does not make it any better. A snippet from their news shows few deliveries in the entire country, ENTIRE COUNTRY!!!. Just thought I would share.

These days, I would gladly pay that $8/gallon if I could just find some petrol to buy. Or, maybe it is time to face the possible theft, and definite sweat, of walking to work? The 1.5 walking hours a day might be a welcome change from the fuel-driven anxiety and the chocolate that soothes it.

Happy transportation to you all!

Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 10:28 AM

Subject: RE: FUEL SUPPLY UPDATE

Dear Valued Partners,

Tuesday, 12^th July 2011

LILONGWE AND THE CENTRE

PETROL

THERE ARE NO DELIVERIESTHIS MORNING

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

• MAULA
• GEMINI
• AREA 18
• BLUE WAVES CITY CENTRE – By Magetsi House
• KANENGO
• CROSS ROADS
• LILONGWE MAIN – Area 2 close
• M1 – BUNDA T-OFF
• MBOWE – By Mr. Price
• KAUNDA ROAD
• ITUNDU – AREA 23
• MTUNTHAMA – Kamuzu Academy
• MPONELA
• SALIMA
• NKHOTA-KOTA
• NTCHISI
• LILONGWE COC DEPOT – Area 4, on Murray Road – Around noon

DELIVERIES WILL BE MADE TO:

· GEMINI

· MAULA

· KANENGO

· M1 – BUNDA T/OFF

· KASUNGU

· DEDZA

· LINTHIPE

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.

BLANTYRE AND THE SOUTH

PETROL

A DELIVERY IS BEING MADE AT:

• ZOMBA SERVICE STATION – Chanco T-Off

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

• CENTENARY GARDENS – LIMBE – Opp. Illovo
• FAIRWAY – ZOMBA – Close to Mulunguzi
• LUCHENZA
• MWANZA

DELIVERIES ARE BEING MADE TO:

• LOTUS MOTORS – PA HARDWARE – LIMBE
• ZOMBA SERVICE STATION – Chanco T-Off

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.

MZUZU AND THE NORTH

PETROL

PETROL IS AVAILABLE AT:

• MZUZU MAIN – Opp. Mzuzu ESCOM.
• NKHATA-BAY
• MZIMBA

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

• MZUZU COC DEPOT – Opp. Road Traffic Dept.
• KARONGA
• NKHATA-BAY

DELIVERIES ARE BEING MADE TO:

• KARONGA – PETROL & DIESEL
• RUMPHI – PETROL
• MZUZU MAIN - DIESEL

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.