Nails in the coffin or progress?

Today, the Reserve Bank of Malawi devalued the Malawi currency, the Kwatcha, from 150MKA/1 $US to 165 MKA/1 $US. The black market price might also rise from the current 185MKA/1$US, but we would not know much about that...

Although it does not seem like much, it will likely have a measurable impact here. Our dollars will go further in the country, which is sort of good for us. It also might help exports of things like tobacco and our beloved hot sauce, Nali, as those prices decrease for foreign buyers. But the prices of imported goods will soar further -- affecting the prices of things I love like fuel, cereal, and yogurt. Can I go 9 months without yogurt if it costs $9 per tub???

The economists have been begging for this type of devaluation for months, if not years. This is a small victory for them. Hopefully, the shortage of foreign exchange (forex) will ease slightly as a result. After more than 8 weeks of crisis level fuel shortages, I would like to fill my tank. I might even be willing to pay $200 to do it! Maybe.

No more idle threats

As if things weren't bad enough for the people of Malawi, the USA just froze one of its largest non-health related grants to Malawi - the one aimed at rebuilding the defunct power plants and helping Malawi meet its electricity needs. The Millennium Challenge Corporation noted the recent violence against initially peaceful protests and the growing dictator-like policies of its president as reasons to withhold the aid. It's worth a quick read in the New York Times if you are interested. We're stocking up on candles and hoping that the president comes to his senses.

Honestly, it's getting harder and harder to not just be cynical about this. What is it with African leaders? I thought we had one here as an example of good governance and democracy. Sadly, every day, he acts more and more like his best buddy to the north, Mugabe. Mugabe is not a good role model. We don't need Malawi to turn into another Zimbabwe. Malawi cannot afford it.

On looking "smart"...part II

It's not just people who can look "smart." I learned today that bathrooms can look smart too.

How do bathrooms look smart? Well, taking my cue from the national TB program bathroom (where, yes, I was taking photos), there are several key components of smart toilets:

1. Don't just "moon" the toilet. "Flash" it too so that your exposure is even.
2. Place toilet seats on the wall dividing stalls. This will help keep them clean.
3. Just throw your paper on the floor.
4. Place a plastic tube across the broken sink as a lovely reminder for needed repairs.


Despite these shortcomings, there was both a square of toilet paper on the roll and soap in this bathroom, making it one of the best I've seen in any public building! Hoorah!!!

Entering day three

It is 6:45am here. It is quiet. I can't tell how quiet yet, but unsettling quiet. There are some traffic sounds, which could be a sign of things back to normal. Or, they could be people moving around before the roads are blocked. We are staying home, at least for now.

This is the news worth sharing right now

• We topped the report from BBC Africa: 18 dead; 4 radio stations shut down by the government for live coverage of the demonstrations; 1 popular, UK-based Malawi news website hacked.
• Some of the more amusing of the president's comments yesterday in his "calming" speech include noting that the protesters are working for Satan. I guess things have gone to hell around here.
  
• Alternatively, in another speech, the president said that the demonstrations are just leading a gay parade. I ask you, when did you last see a gay pride parade turn violent?
• The funerals of the killed protesters are today. The civil society groups have noted that they will take charge of the funerals. I hope they are peaceful.

Here is a good overview if you want it, from the UK Guardian newspaper.

More news as it comes.

A map of the action

Just an update from the safety of our home. We're fine. Jon made a map to make it easier for you all to see the situation. The red Xs are where much of the action is - they look close, but they are at least a mile away, and most areas are several miles away. Our home (blue) is away from the major action, but within earshot.


Anyway, since our last update, this is what we have learned:

• Current riots and looting in the areas with the Xs - including grocery stores, Chinese-owned businesses, political offices, and market stalls.
• Area 25 gun shots and police firing to disperse crowds
• In a local church where protester leaders tried to take refuge yesterday, both political activists and journalists were attacked by police and beaten.
• In a shopping area in a neighboring area, a police car was burned and people were told to evacuate the surrounding buildings, including an office where many of our friends work.
• 9 dead and several dozen injured in Mzuzu to the north. We hear about more dead in Lilongwe this morning, but we cannot confirm it.
• The roads into and out of town are blocked; we hear (unconfirmed) that no flights took off yesterday.
• Cars on the road last night and today have been stoned by angry crowds
  
• Many are blaming the police for escalating and provoking crowds
  

In response to these events, there have been repeated calls for calm from civil society leaders this morning on the radio. The radio messages remind everyone that protests were scheduled yesterday; today's unsanctioned madness is not helping anyone. The civil society groups are asking people to remember that the people's petition was delivered, and that the government was given a month to respond. They ask for peace while they wait for a response to their demands from the government.

We hear that the President is supposed to speak at any time. I am not sure if that will make the situation better or worse...

More later as events unfold.

So much for that peace...

Well, it appeared to be a peaceful morning - birds chirping, Jon off to work, people thinking it was safe. Then, the pops of tear gas canisters, smoke in the distance, and two calls in quick succession:

1. From my Malawi boss: "Stay home. Trouble around town"
2. From my non-local NGO boss: "Pack a bag - just in case"

So, as I pause to write this out, I hear that gangs are gathering around town, sirens in the not-so-distance, people are running from the center of town up our relatively calm street. Some more stores have been looted, including several banks, and rumors of worse incidents abound. This is really not very good.

So, off I go to pack my and Jon's bag -- passports, money, and some changes of clothes.

More as it comes in. Hopefully, it will be calmer as the day goes on. Hopefully.

UPDATE: Jon just home after going to work for a few minutes. Streets were still clear of traffic, but crowded with walkers on their way home. Glad that we are both home, packed, and ready to see what happens, together.

Hoping for a peaceful night...

Thanks to the riots, we had the afternoon off to take our dog to the vet down the street (she's fine). Now, back, we are happy (or bittersweet happy) that all here in our ritzy neighborhood is calm.

Still no cars on the road, and just a few plumes of smoke in the distance. We've heard that an auctioneer's warehouse was ransacked (the owner is a member of a past president's family) and that 2 other goods storage areas were also looted. A friend of ours is stuck in traffic behind some currently-peaceful protest marches heading for the center of town as I type (4:30pm, local time). And, we've made BBC news as well!

We're hoping that things calm down and that all will be "normal" tomorrow. It is sad, as Jon noted, that this is not what the people intended for this day to be -- a day to peacefully protest the current government's policies. It will be interesting to see what the news reports tomorrow, or what the news is allowed to report tomorrow.

We're fine. It's Malawi that seems in trouble.

Well that didn't take long...

Some snippets from this morning:

· Tear gas thrown by police in old town near bus station drifted into our second clinic location, closing it today (I am at the other clinic)

· People are out on the streets wearing red, the color of protest

· Internet news sites are blocked

· Radio station frequencies are blocked

· Police cars are on fire

· Stores of political party members are on fire

· People are burning tires in the road to block police movement

· Police are on “parade” in city center

· Buses have been burned in Mzuzu to the north

· Political office burned in Mzuzu

· The streets, other than the protests are quite – very few cars on the road

And during all this, the President continues to give his public lecture about how great things are going in Malawi…word on the street says that only his political party members are attending.

No clinic patients today at my or Jon’s clinic: Jon’s clinic is closed, and the nurses here are sunbathing. We, however, are staying put.

UPDATE: my clinic is now closed too at 11am. People are leaving their cars and walking home in groups.