language barriers

Today, a work colleague sent a quick logistics note to an incoming consultant who has never worked in the region nor visited Malawi. His email read:

"The driver will pick you at the airport and bring you to the hotel to reflesh."

This place really can be a horror, but I hope the consultant realizes that kindness was simply lost in translation.

A weekend of amorous elephants

Last weekend, Jon, Veronica and I went off to spend a romantic weekend together in a family chalet at Liwonde National Park -- the same incredible place I went with Laura a couple of months ago when we shared the honeymoon suite.This time, the bathroom in the cabin had walls, an advantage with 3 people. The bathroom also had a mouse who enjoyed swimming in our toilet when not eating our soap.

Jon and Veronica were excited from the moment we stepped into the boat to take us to Camp. Warthogs greeted us as we approached our cabin, and the two of them were overcome with emotion as if seeing a double rainbow. The joy continued during our first evening safari when we saw elephants, antelopes, zebra, hippos, and everything but the rhino we were searching for in the rhino sanctuary. In fact, the driver was so intent on finding a rhino for us, that we arrived back at the gate to find it already locked – too late. Still, with gin and tonic and cold beer, who needs a lovely sunset location or a way out? We enjoyed our sunset drink while standing around the vehicle staring at the padlocked plotting our escape. Freedom rang after an hour by miraculous discovery of a “hidden” key.

The next morning, we went for an incredible morning boat safari. We saw several family groups of elephants, likely more than 60 in total, including babies, a bachelor group, and several amorous elephants. [Did you know that elephants have 5 legs? Check out the photo]. We also saw hundreds of hippos, stunning birds, and myriad crocodiles lounging on the banks. It is my third time in the park, and I still caught flies in my open mouth while staring.

Our second evening safari was slightly less pleasant (for others in the car). 2 flat tires stalled our progress – the first one was fixed with the spare, the second one left us waiting in the dark for a rescue vehicle. The newcomers in our group were less than impressed even though we did manage to see both a porcupine and a large family of mongoose. That evening, we were “treated” to a brai (South African style BBQ) and traditional dancing. It was entertaining enough, but slightly uncomfortable as many canned cultural events are. We escaped back to our cabin early and woke to the sights and sounds of munching hippos right outside. One hippo even slept in the bush next to our cabin! We went on a quick “tracks and turds” early morning walking tour and then, full bellied, made our departure. Veronica and I left Jon on the side of the road and drove on home. I promise, he wanted to be left there. Really.

Red dog's new love

Seems Red Dog has a special love for my niece, Talia. Here they are pictured sleeping together on the floor of my parents' bedroom.

some recent work head bashers

Just a few things that have made me say, "hmmmmm" in the last few days:

1. A Ministry office called to ask if we had kept a copy of the recent AIDS treatment guidelines. Seems they sent out hard copies and had not kept an electronic file anywhere. They were unsure about which guidelines were the current ones and needed our confirmation.

2. The National AIDS Commission commended us for our dedicated staff and exemplary service for HIV-infected patients. Then, they cut our staff budget by 70% for the coming year. Still, we are supposed to see the same number of patients and serve as a model public clinic.

3. The Ministry spends the same amount on its entire national health budget as the Global Fund donates for just anti-retroviral drugs for HIV-infected patients. Then, in the local paper, government officials noted that the donor presence is becoming a burden and that the country can handle its health issues on its own.

4. This weekend, we are having a rally for community involvement in HIV/AIDS palliative care - basically drawing awareness to our home-based care program and the needs of bed-ridden patients. The rally was supposed to start in a community center, but they wanted too much money for the venue. So, we moved it to a church. The church then stipulated that we could not have any traditional Nyau dancing or speak about birth control. I would have paid the money. We will start in church instead.

These types of events or happenings make finding the humor in every day life much more important. It also makes maintaining an idealistic core underneath my cynicism challenging, but (so far) possible. I truly do love it here!

A quick photo tour of my Mozambique trip

Last week, I was in Pemba, Mozambique -- arguably one of the nicest beach locations in all of southern Africa. I spent most of the time at the conference, but I did get a chance to stroll the beach in the early hours of the morning before the meetings started and snap some photos. It was great to speak portugues again, and the locals seemed amused and excited by the fact that I could talk with them. It clearly bought me some bonus points while taking photos. They are in the new Pemba Mozambique album. Enjoy!

http://picasaweb.google.com/cfeldacker

uncensored!

Really: these are just that unbelievably strange. Plus, I was surprised that Jon did not mention the obvious statement that these make: Go Tar Heels!

Famine? What famine?

The President of Malawi made the news this week for threatening to censor the press in response to a series of articles they published in the newspaper on the expected food shortages in the south of the country [The responses to the article are especially interesting]. The maize crop in the south largely failed due to drought; they are expected to harvest far short of what they need. As this is the most heavily populated area of the country, also with the highest HIV infection rates, the combination of hunger and vulnerability people is likely to take a heavy toll – likely leading to starvation for some and a worsening health status for thousands more. The President denies this possibility, and noted that Malawi had so much surplus food that it even exported some food to help other food insecure regions in neighboring countries. This is true: in 2007, Malawi did donate food to its neighbors.

However, food security is not a static issue and droughts are largely unpredictable. His neglect for the region, insistence on Malawi’s ability to feed its people, and obstinacy in the face of increasing evidence of impending hunger are cause for concern. So is his threat to shut the press down if they continue to report these lies to please donors. This country is, in theory, democratic. It makes me nervous for Malawi. It makes me nervous for the example Malawi sets for the African Union in their position as AU Chair this year.

This is a usually peaceful place. With the recent violence in Mozambique fueled by soaring food prices, I sit anxiously waiting to see what will transpire in the coming months here. Let’s all hope for rain and increased attention to the truth about food security in Malawi.

PS: Jon got his visa yesterday (in 4 hours versus my 4+ months) so he should be able to stay even if I get kicked out of the country for this post...