Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Malawi’s downward spiral?

I am sure that most news of Malawi does not make it to the USA. Much news about Malawi barely makes it to us, and we live here. But, recent events are really making this a tough place to live, and I don’t just mean for us. There are several recent events that we should mention.

The first is the Malawi Pensions Bill . Now, usually this is a really boring topic, but there are some attention drawing issues here. First, in 2010, Malawi made the retirement age 55. Considering that the life expectancy for is 44 years for men and 51 for women , this seems harsh: the majority would be dead before eligibility. So, they lowered the age to 50, almost as cruel but not quite. Now, what do Malawians access at the age of pension? Presumably, they will have a state-sponsored account, similar to our social security (or the only parallel I can easily draw), that they can access at 50 years old. As of June 1, 2011, all employed (KEY WORD) Malawians will be forced to contribute 5% of their monthly wage to this fund; 10% of the monthly wage will also be contributed by the employer. Effectively, everyone in Malawi just got a 15% pay cut. As all the prices are going up, do you think this is fair? And the government is swiftly losing all credibility, do you think this money will be there for average citizens?

To make matters worse, remember when Malawi kicked out the British High Commissioner for noting the continuing issues with good governance or financial policy? No apology from here yet – ensuing chaos be damned! Not surprisingly, the British Government pulled their general budget assistance – a huge chunk of what lets the government operate here. So, to fill the enormous void, Malawi is promoting a Zero Deficit budget – dreaming up ways to make up budget shortfalls by any means necessary. First, they started taxing "luxury" goods like milk, bread, and meat. Now, they will be using the pension funds to supplement what the donor community will no longer provide. Luckily for everyone, the Brits still are funding 40% of the health budget or there would be very few paid healthcare workers. Unpaid healthcare workers are not happy healthcare workers…

And, if the intermittent supply of diesel and petrol was not enough, how about some more blackouts? The local, and only, power company recently declared that another of its main power stations was closed for repairs (making 3, in total), reducing the energy supply to a trickle. In response, the power company released plans for morning and evening blackouts – including from 4pm-10pm every night until the end of the year. So far, we’ve seen more short, unpredictable blackouts and bought a small backup battery to power a few lights and a computer. In combination with the diesel shortage to supply generators, people and businesses are really facing a power crisis.

So, what are Malawians doing in response to their government’s policies? Well, so far, not much. There have been some criticisms in the papers, some anger in the radio news, and some stirrings of protest. In fact, there are supposed to be massive demonstrations tomorrow, Wednesday, and rumors already abound about tactics to create chaos. However, fear of arrest, detainment, or other undesirable outcomes keeps most people away. The continuing petrol and diesel shortages might reduce crowd size as well.

Malawi is usually a very calm place – too calm, some might say. It could be getting interesting around here (from a political perspective – still excruciatingly boring from a social perspective). We’ll keep you posted. And, after a preemptive warning, we’ll stay away from the action behind our very large walls….

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The dry season

...is supposed to be about rain. But, nope: it is also about petrol. And, dear friends, it will be a long dry season.

I have 1/4 tank; Jon has a little more. Enough for a week, at most, if we only drive to and from work or carpool. The BP Fuel Update does not make it any better. A snippet from their news shows few deliveries in the entire country, ENTIRE COUNTRY!!!. Just thought I would share.

These days, I would gladly pay that $8/gallon if I could just find some petrol to buy. Or, maybe it is time to face the possible theft, and definite sweat, of walking to work? The 1.5 walking hours a day might be a welcome change from the fuel-driven anxiety and the chocolate that soothes it.

Happy transportation to you all!


Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 10:28 AM

Subject: RE: FUEL SUPPLY UPDATE

Dear Valued Partners,

Tuesday, 12th July 2011

LILONGWE AND THE CENTRE

PETROL

THERE ARE NO DELIVERIESTHIS MORNING

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

  • MAULA
  • GEMINI
  • AREA 18
  • BLUE WAVES CITY CENTRE – By Magetsi House
  • KANENGO
  • CROSS ROADS
  • LILONGWE MAIN – Area 2 close
  • M1 – BUNDA T-OFF
  • MBOWE – By Mr. Price
  • KAUNDA ROAD
  • ITUNDU – AREA 23
  • MTUNTHAMA – Kamuzu Academy
  • MPONELA
  • SALIMA
  • NKHOTA-KOTA
  • NTCHISI
  • LILONGWE COC DEPOT – Area 4, on Murray Road – Around noon

DELIVERIES WILL BE MADE TO:

· GEMINI

· MAULA

· KANENGO

· M1 – BUNDA T/OFF

· KASUNGU

· DEDZA

· LINTHIPE

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.

BLANTYRE AND THE SOUTH

PETROL

A DELIVERY IS BEING MADE AT:

  • ZOMBA SERVICE STATION – Chanco T-Off

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

  • CENTENARY GARDENS – LIMBE – Opp. Illovo
  • FAIRWAY – ZOMBA – Close to Mulunguzi
  • LUCHENZA
  • MWANZA

DELIVERIES ARE BEING MADE TO:

  • LOTUS MOTORS – PA HARDWARE – LIMBE
  • ZOMBA SERVICE STATION – Chanco T-Off

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.

MZUZU AND THE NORTH

PETROL

PETROL IS AVAILABLE AT:

  • MZUZU MAIN – Opp. Mzuzu ESCOM.
  • NKHATA-BAY
  • MZIMBA

DIESEL

DIESEL IS AVAILABLE AT:

  • MZUZU COC DEPOT – Opp. Road Traffic Dept.
  • KARONGA
  • NKHATA-BAY

DELIVERIES ARE BEING MADE TO:

  • KARONGA – PETROL & DIESEL
  • RUMPHI – PETROL
  • MZUZU MAIN - DIESEL

Details of other possible deliveries will be communicated later in the day.

Friday, July 8, 2011

A tearful goodbye to Veronica!

Veronica left us yesterday after spending more than 7 weeks with us in the house. For Jon, he lost a friend to play board games, a weekend baker, and an occasional partner to eat meat! He will be sad.

For me, Vern's departure is more devastating. Having only a handful of friends here before, I'm now down 25% from where I was a few days ago -- no insignificant loss. I've lost my workout partner for home videos, jump rope and walks around the neighborhood. I have no one to drink fun drink, aka: Crystal Light, with or someone who happily shares my yogurt-based veggie dips. No one will marvel any more at my one-pot, vaguely-ethnic dinners or look forward to (another) cabbage salad with vinegar. No one will talk qualitative methods with me into the night or join me for episodes of girlie shows (it's always better to watch embarrassing TV in twos). Sigh.

But, before she left, we took Vern out to our favorite Indian restaurant to celebrate her last night. We've been there a dozen times, all with delicious but only mildly spicy food. Jon, Vern, and I all love spicy food, so we figured we would try one more time to get the food to actually have some heat. As usual, when we ordered, we asked for the food to be, "Hot, Indian Hot, Hot Hot. " But, this time, Jon added the fateful phrase, "don't worry: we won't complain". (cue scary music).


So, as our eyes teared, our throats burned, our lips swelled, and our stomachs complained, we ate as best as we could some of the hottest food I have ever tried to eat. (Note: the food is colored either red chili or green chili). True to our words, we did not complain. We laughed as we thought of the Indian chef in the kitchen ghoulishly cackling to himself, "they want Indian hot, do they? Then, they shall have it!" Of course, where had he been every time before??

Even an additional dish of "super mild" palak paneer, another 2 orders of nan bread, and liters (yes, liters) of cold water could not help us finish or cool the burn. Either could rolls of tissue and paper towels. As if a test of wills, Jon and I both ate about half of our dishes; Veronica smartly waved the white flag just minutes into the meal. Ice cream saved the evening, and likely prevented ulcers. Vern and I still ended the evening with some Pepto-based prophylaxis.

So, sorry about your final meal with us, Veronica. It was a meal to remember, but not the memory that we intended. And for me and Jon, a lesson learned, again: Be careful for what you wish for! Wishes do sometimes come true...

Monday, June 27, 2011

Which do you prefer: water, electricity, or fuel?

My office mates are not usually funny. Or, they might be hysterical in Chichewa, but they are not usually so funny in English. However, we were all just talking about the diesel shortages, the weekend power outages, and the water line breaks which dried up 3 huge neighborhoods. I had to pass on the outcome from our informal room poll to find out which critical commodity everyone would prioritize: water, electricity, or diesel?

The winner was......fuel (more humorous when you realize only 2 of us have cars). Reasons: you can sell it to buy water or power; you can use it to drive to water or to your friend's house for dinner, or you can burn it for electricity! I had chosen water. Now I am rethinking my choice...

To that end, there was also a funny (when translated) cartoon in the weekend paper that showed a fuel line -- ubiquitous around town these days. The heading read, "Before the current President, poor people lined up for corn. Now, rich people line up for fuel."

And, what would you choose to live without for a few days (if you actually had any choice)?

Monday, June 20, 2011

It takes a village (ceremony)...

By Peace Corps standards, and by most standards, Jon and I live like kings. To share the wealth a little, we’ve adopted a Peace Corps volunteer! We feed her, share our pantry items (like Mac n’ Cheese and chocolate chips), and let (make) her take hot showers when she comes to town. In exchange, we heard her stories of “real” Malawian life and had hopeful expectations of visiting her during a village ceremony. This would give us a taste of village life while still coming home to our cushy home and spring mattress.




This week, our adoption paid off, and we got an invitation to a village goodbye party for snother Peace Corps Volunteer complete with feast, dancing, and drumming. On Sunday, we packed our car full of goodies like sugar and corn flour for the community, tasty treats for the Volunteer, and the shopping bags from our guide/friend (win-win -- he gets a ride, we don't get lost).

We arrived in Nambuma and were greeted warmly by the village chief -- a fantastic woman who also runs the secondary school in town. She immediately ushered us into her home for tasty bowls of rice with chicken heads and corn flour (nsima) with goat stomach wound in goat intestine. I had beans. We washed it all down with some locally made banana wine and Orange Fanta -- a delicious combination! After stuffing ourselves full of carbs, we got to watch the drummers and dancers warm up and were pulled into the crowd -- a highlight of the afternoon. I am not sure who was having more fun -- me taking photos or the kids having their photos taken. I'll call it a tie.




With everyone warmed up, the show began. The guests of honor (us) sat in a row of chairs in front, under a tarp. The village chiefs all sat in a line of chairs behind us (guilt) and on the ground next to us (double guilt). Speeches by the local elders and chiefs instructed the kids to behave themselves around the white people and around the dancers. Second round speeches begged us not to forget them and to help them get boreholes for clean water -- requiring about $7000 US. Small costs for some, unfathomable for them. After a last round of instruction to keep the money flowing or the dancers would get angry and eat you, the festivities began!





Our pockets were cleared out of 20 and 50 kwatcha notes (180 Kwatcha = 1$) as we watched the dancers and drummers entrance the crowd. The first round were the Guliwankulu, a secret Chewa society of medicine men or witches, depending on you listen to. No one is to know their identity -- as observed in the costumes. Their feathers and tattered clothes were pretty incredible, the man in the plastic wolf mask not withstanding. I guess these same rules do not apply to the female dancers who joined them. Between the drummers and the dancers, they likely won 5000 kwatcha! Round two involved a bunch of secondary school girls who took turns dancing in pairs. They won both money and a soccer ball! The third, spontaneous round, involved a bunch of drunk men in sticks. They received nothing. The final round was a group of women who danced a conga line and sang. They still likely made 1000.






By the end, we were tapped out of change, covered in dust, and happy as clams to have seen a taste of the "real" Malawi. Strangely, coming back into Lilongwe really did feel like coming back to the big city! A little perspective is nice.