Special edition: guest blogger!

Caryl and Jon have left some pretty big blogging shoes for me to fill here, but I figured "When in Malawi..." I should at least try. So far, I've learned many things that would fall under the headline of "When in Malawi..." For example, when in Malawi, expect to do something fabulously well, only to discover that someone else has already done it.

Everything Caryl says about Malawi is incredibly accurate. (She seems overwhelmingly adamant that you know that, while poking me in the arm.) If you are one of the lucky few who come here to visit her, follow her advice!! (Trust me, this might be the first time in 36 years of friendship that I've said this!)

Baggage claim in Lilongwe has to be one of the most unusual experiences of my life. You have just completed about 24 hours of air travel/airport waiting...you then find yourself crushed with a throng of humanity, waiting for bags on one very small carousel. And since the bags for the people waiting at the front never arrived, all the people in the back can do is watch their bags go round in circles, helpless. I was almost hopeless: pushed to the back with no luggage at all. When in Malawi, you fill out a baggage claim form and leave it up to luck to decide if/when you get your baggage. As you know, my bags were eventually greeted with an overwhelming reception of gratitude here. It was worth every moment of schlepping to see Caryl's face. When in Malawi, Oreos and Chapstick (among other things) are a priceless treasure.

We spent our first weekend in Honeymoon Nirvana, aka the Mvuu Lodge. Now, we were not on a honeymoon, but we appreciated the free upgrade we received anyway. It might be the most beautiful place I will ever stay. By the end of the weekend we had close encounters with elephants and hippos, vervet monkeys and baboons, impalas and warthogs, not to mention lilac breasted rollers (but we mentioned it repeatedly for the fun of it). We also had too close of encounters with pretentious, name dropping Europeans. When in Malawi, both 4-legged and 2-legged creatures can be full of it.

We returned, happy but exhausted...me from lack of sleep due to loud animals and birds all night, Caryl from 5 hours of driving each way with much clenching of shoulders and teeth. She is doing an excellent job driving here, what with the goats, chickens and people to dodge, the FIVE police stops on our way down, and the numerous potholes that could be hiding all of the above. When in Malawi, wear your seatbelt, use your horn, and drive as if everyone else on/near the road is about to dart in front of you, because they probably are.

I could keep going, but I'll save that for some other morning. Why? Because when in Malawi, you wake up really early every day. Really.