Ruins even I could appreciate

After a day on the boat, and a surprisingly nice formal night/award dinner [complete with obligatory couples photos shot by the only jerk on the boat}, we arrived in Kusadasi, Turkey. We spent the morning touring Ephesus – an ancient port and trading center where Cleopatra and Mark Anthony were rumored to walk. My favorite parts were the group latrines for men (reenacted here by me and Jon) and the brothels. The brothels were actually linked to the library through underground tunnels – thus starting the ancient practice of men saying that they were going to “study” or to a “work meeting ” while taking a small detour for a different type of business. Hysterical! Alongside the ornate carvings on the pillars were newer graffiti by not so talented visitors (also photographed). After blocking all other tourists from the major attraction to take the Biogen group photo, we left by way of stalls full of genuine fake watches and fig candy – Turkish Delight! On the way back to town, we were trapped by our sneaky guide and forced into a carpet dealer’s sales pitch (my fault).



We did finally escape with Mindy and Rich to get fantastic lunch at a local place, Avlu. Although I did not need the mid-day gorge, this was my favorite meal of the trip – hot flatbread straight from the oven, grilled veggies dripping with olive oil, spicy fire-roasted tomatoes with fava beans, pickled veggies, and scrumptious yogurt (even the meat eaters liked it!). Before leaving his friends, Jon gave them a stern talk about how to bargain -- paying only half price, being firm, walking away, etc. Jon then left his precious map for the day to be guided through the bazaar by me (so brave!). We wandered cobblestone streets lined by jewelry stores, ceramics, real “fake” watches, tiled mosques, leather shops, and oodles of rug warehouses. We managed to buy pretty much nothing other than some candy. Jon, however, was on a mission for a coffee cup. Once he found it, did he bargain? Did he walk away? Did he counter offer? No! He accepted the first price – 2x what it was worth – and would not even try for better when I noted loudly (but with a smile) that the vendor must have many hungry children to charge so much for the trinket. Seems someone can talk the talk but not walk the walk. Jon: I hope your mom loved the $5000 cup and saucer set…