Leaving on a jet plane…TODAY!

I hate John Denver, but that song has been going through my head all day (and now it can go through yours!). And, it makes me smile from ear to ear, unlike usual when it makes me grimace...

It has been a bittersweet whirlwind these last few weeks, full of saying goodbye to friends, wrapping up at work, and getting everything sold from almost 2 years of life here. On the work side, I think that I have felt more appreciation in the last few days than I felt for much of my last years – it fills me with pride in my work and leaves me with hope for their future success. Lighthouse threw me a really nice party – speeches, songs, dancing -- complemented with lots of salads and chocolate cake instead of the usual beef kebabs and white sheet cake. They gave me thoughtful presents like a wooden salad bowl, Malawi traditional cloths, coasters, and a Lighthouse t-shirt. Our colleagues at UNC, ITECH, and Baobab also attended (and Baobab brought me a beautiful painting and bag). The entire staff also wrote me a lovely book of notes that brought tears (of work-induced joy!) to my eyes. Most amusingly, the cooks gave me an enormous bowl of cooked beans to remember them by (I did love bean day!). Lastly, yesterday, on my actual last day, I asked everyone to come by at 3:30 for a hug goodbye. And they did! People from the cleaners to the managers started knocking on the door for their hugs at 3pm. If you know Malawi, they are not a hugging people – this was really a heartwarming gesture. I think every day should have been hug day there. Maybe I could have made it until March?

The home closure went surprisingly smoothly, easy even, after weeks of frantic sales, cleaning, packing, organizing, painting, and stress. The Minister/landlord came to receive his keys personally, and he was actually unbelievably kind. He inspected the home, found it in excellent condition, and was most impressed that we actually had all the keys (unlike the previous tenant who left with them – idiot). I got back my entire deposit – although I do have to cross my fingers that the check clears – and he will keep my housekeeper (photo with me and the family) on the site for a few months, which is nice for her. [What was not nice was her kneeling with her head on my feet earlier in the morning begging me to get her a job. Erf].

The last round of goodbyes with friends seems only temporary as most of us will meet again somewhere, sometime. Mina threw a fantastic belated Thanksgiving with the UNC crew, and we ate a mixed cultural blend of delicious foods with some of the typical trappings like stuffing, turkey, and pumpkin pie. I went to hang out with Kai and Sabrina at our favorite (and only) Ethiopian place for dinner, and Kai scored me one last jerry can with 5 liters of petrol so I could get home. I got to spend the last 4 nights with Hillary and Mike at their house since mine was empty (a perfect excuse). It was such a nice way to end my time here – walking, eating, drinking, and merry making with 2 of my favorite people (and local life savers).

So, now I am at the airport to say goodbye Malawi! My closest work mates, Hannock and Saulos, actually surprised me here for my sendoff: that finally did set the tears running. They brought me some lovely last minute gifts and a thoughtful card – making me blubber just a wee bit at the check-in counter. I guess I will miss this place in some ways, and in some ways different/more than I expected. I will likely be back for some short-term work sooner than later, and that will be fine (maybe even almost fun). Live here again long term? I’ll pass, thank you. I feel closure with my life here.

But, as I get ready to board, I did want to take a quick second to remember what I will miss aside from the good friends I’ve made:

1. Amazing birds right in the yard include the Lilac Breasted Roller and Livingston Turaco (which I saw this morning – thanks, Turaco!). Amazing, haunting, amusing, jungle-like sounds that wake you in the morning (at 5am) and lull you to sleep at night.

2. The feeling that you are making a positive difference, even on the days when the difference is just an improvement on a PPT presentation or a returned smile from a really sick patient.

3. The red flame trees all in bloom (like right now), preceded by the purple and yellow flowering ones

4. My Lighthouse/MPC co-workers who kept me inspired even when the work was crushing

5. Mangoes! My lips are still covered in hives from eating too many, but I just push through the pain and peeling.

6. It is beautiful here when you can travel – walking, paddling, or driving around the mountains or lakeshore dotted with thatch-roofed huts, women wearing colorful chitenje cloth, everyone carrying all manner of things on their heads, smiling (or crying) children following you, and the majestic baobab trees.

7. The things in the HUGE yard (with underused swings….grr) like blue-headed lizards, impala-lillies, hedgehogs, tarantulas, multi-colored grasshoppers, and my long-stay foster puppies (all in good homes!): Tomato, Zapato, Daisy, and Peanut.

8. The challenges of living without water or electricity or petrol or plain yogurt or diet coke. Yes, although usually frustrating, it does help you recognize that you can get by with less than you think and makes for a little excitement.

9. Best hot sauce in the world: Nali!

10. The sense that even after the worse day here, filled with anxiety, disappointment, disillusionment, or downright depression, you still recognize how lucky you are and are grateful.

Adventures with leopards in Zambia!

Last week, my parents and I joined my friends Mike and Hillary and her mom for a 4-day safari to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The first 7 hours were spent mostly on a dusty, bumpy road with driver singing one song, over and over again. In combination with the hot cheese, white bread, and mayonnaise sandwiches on the lunch stop, our introduction to the tour was not great. Luckily, no salmonella and the iPods covered the sounds of the driver. We arrived at camp and recovered from the journey, falling asleep listening to the sounds of the elephants and hippos munching happily outside our tents!

The next day, up at dawn, we went out on our first safari: monitor lizards, hippos, giraffes, zebras, elephants, lions around a fresh buffalo kill, vultures soaring on the thermals, and dozens of stunning birds like lilac breasted rollers (my favorite, and not just because of how the name rolls off the tongue) were in abundance. We also saw various forms of deer (water buck, kudu, gazelle, impala, diker, and other similar-ish creatures), but they get boring fast. After trying to relax in the scathing heat between safaris, we were at it again at dusk – repeating the animal sightings and trying, unsuccessfully, to find leopards at night.

The morning of day 3 was surreal. You know that scene at the end of the Lion King where all of the animals gather together peacefully to greet the new king? Yeah, that is pretty much what we saw (minus the lions) around a fig tree festooned with baboons and vervet monkey. On the ground, dozens of impala grazed happily on the fruits side by side with their elephant and warthog friends. I've been on many safaris, but I must admit me this scene left me awed. It is impossible to describe well, and not even photos would do it justice. I think that we watched for nearly an hour, and I am grinning again now just thinking about it.

I was also desperate to get my leopard sighting before we left, and we got one – a very close encounter, perhaps too close. The leopard literally walked under the jeep! It was a little too close for my comfort, but I was most annoyed by being on the wrong side of the car to catch it well on camera. We also saw marshes covered in pelicans, dozens of fish eagles, and countless zebras, giraffes, and the colorful bee-eaters (brightly colored red or green birds). At the end of the day, we found a nice spot on the river for sundowners (drinks!) and tried to get good photos of hippos yawning (notice I did not get one) while basking in our amazing experiences. Back in camp, we were joined by elephants, hippos, and baboons as our final day came to an end.

Up at dawn on our last day, we watched cape buffalo cross the river at sunrise and marveled at the audible, whirling, cloud-like formations of thousands of birds flying low over the river. It felt like a scene from Planet Earth (but without the recording equipment to share it with you in HD). After a quick breakfast and a stop in the tourist trap/textile factory, we made it through 7 hot, dusty hours in the car and made it home, still smiling.

The next day, with 1300 photos taken, my folks left for Cape Town, and I headed back to work. It was a fabulous whirlwind trip for them (3 countries in 14 days), a great chance for me to show them life here in Malawi, and a wonderful last trip around the region for now. And, in just under a month, I'll be home!

Malawian communication style

This hysterical email came from a coworker as an explanation about a loss of “equipment". Giggling about this makes you about as mature as a 13 year old boy…

She wrote:

“I want to report about what happened to my Dongle though it has taken some time. It was the time when the training started and I was asked to borrow the facilitators my laptop; so I removed the dongle from the computer bag and put it in my trousers pocket. I went to the rest room and I forgot that this dongle was in the pocket and after I have helped myself I flashed the toilet and I discovered that accidentally it dropped into it. So since that time up to now I don't have the dongle. I reported the matter to my supervisor.”

[Ps: a “dongle” is a USB internet access device. But, it is much funnier without knowing that.]

And with a fanfare, they arrived!

Greeted by drums, dancers, and a convoy of BMWs and SUVs, my parents arrived in Malawi last Thursday. Of course, the red carpet was for the VP of Zambia, but it was still fun. Less fun was having them sit on the plane until all the VIPs got off, but it made for a fun arrival. With my ID and nice work clothes, I was even able to walk right into arrivals and immigration, making sure that they knew at least I was eager for their arrival as well!

Because of those dignitaries, the gas shortage reached an acute stage this past weekend: the president ordered all gas stations to close so that the visiting dignitaries would not see gas lines. Happily for us, but not for most, we were able to get a special delivery of 20 gallons to enable us to go to the beach. So, with full tank and empty roads, my folks and I went down to Norman Carr Cottages – my favorite place on Lake Malawi.

We had the whole place virtually to ourselves! 2 days of swinging, beach walking, drinking, and eating up a storm was the perfect introduction to Malawi, and the owners, Taffy and Jenny made everything perfect. Add in the monkeys in the trees, a rare lake hippo sighting, fish eagle feeding, a tour of the local village, and gorgeous baobab trees, and my parents were in heaven.

On the way back, we stopped at Mua Mission for their cultural museum and wood carvings and Dedza pottery for a stretch and lunch – getting all of the tourist “hot spots” around. Considering we did not hit a single meandering goat or child in the road and did not get stopped in any speed traps, our weekend was near flawless. No wonder people love Malawi. If it were always like this, I would love it too!

Now, after a few days relaxing around Lilongwe, we are off on safari to Zambia with Jon. South Luangwa National Park, here we come!